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South Australia is blessed with world renowned wine regions. Barossa Valley, Coonawarra and McLaren Vale are familiar names and home to famous wineries like Penfolds, Rockford, Wynns and Henschke. There are actually a few more remarkable but less explored regions, like Adelaide Hills and Clare Valley to the east and north of Adelaide. The areas are smaller in size but their humble stature hide wineries that are simply amazing world beaters.
Mount Horrocks Wines is one of those wineries that are often overlooked but craft mind blowing wines. Stephanie Toole is the owner and winemaker of Mount Horrocks Wines. This tiny winery in Clare Valley produces only about 2500 dozen cases annually as Stephanie wants to retain the authenticity and sense of place that each wine represents. All the grapes come from the 3 single vineyards she owns and manages. From the very beginning, Stephanie had adopted an organic / natural approach as she believed that healthy vines make great wines, and a less interventionist approach lends greater authenticity to the wines. Today, Mount Horrocks Wines is one of the few Australian wineries that carry the Grade A Organic and Biodynamic Certification on the back label.
Stephanie is known in the wine circle as a Riesling Whisperer of sorts. Her dry Watervale Riesling is complex and beautiful with fresh floral and apricot notes and a steely backbone. The wine has great longevity and can be kept for 15+ years if we are patient. The intensity and flavour concentration ensure that the wine will age beautifully. With only about 900 dozen made, most of the wine are sold domestically even before the first overseas orders come in.
As much as the Watervale Riesling is stunning, the dessert Cordon Cut Riesling is the wine that truly sets Mount Horrocks Wines apart. Cordon Cut is a process where the vine cane is deliberately severed with the grapes still attached and left to shrivel on its cane for about seven weeks. This process allows the grapes to raisin while retaining freshness and acidity. Unlike botrytised dessert Rieslings that could be cloying, the Cordon Cut Riesling is packed with fruits. The wine is sweet but doesn’t stick to the throat as the acidity keeps the whole package fresh. There aren’t many Cordon Cut wines in the market even though it’s a great technique, because Cordon Cut’s a complex procedure that if not performed correctly could kill the vines. There’s also the very real danger that autumn rains could damage the grapes after the canes have been cut, potentially destroying the year’s harvest.
The Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling is highly rated by wine critics. The most interesting accolades though must be it being the only Australian wine served (over the mega big and famous brands) at the official Lord Mayor of London’s luncheon to celebrate Queen Elizabeth’s 80th birthday at Mansion House in 2006, and as a cheeky entry in the book “1001 Wines to Try before You Die”.
Besides the 2 excellent Rieslings, the Mount Horrocks Semillon is an amazing white wine. This 100% Semillon is made in a dry style. The Mount Horrocks Semillon is barrel fermented and matured in French Oak for 9 months. The wine is scented with lemon, white peach and apple, and amply supported by complex, lightly spiced oak. It’s also one of the few white wines that drink well in their youth but will develop incredibly complex notes when aged. There aren’t many 100% Semillons in Singapore as it’s not a very popular grape variety. We bring the Mount Horrocks Semillon to Singapore because we believe that it’s a wine that will pleasantly surprise you. This wine was rated “Top 10 Australian Dry Semillons” by Australian wine critic Jeremy Oliver.
In addition to the whites, Mount Horrocks Wines also produces a single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Unlike the Barossa Valley, Coonawarra and McLaren Vale styles, these are cool climate red wines. They are elegant and soft. The wines are perfectly integrated and balanced. For me, they are the perfect examples of Australian red wines that aren’t fruit bombs and can be enjoyed without the tongue going numb and enduring a throbbing headache afterwards.
Stephanie is a very independent lady who marches to her own drum. I still remembered fondly our conversations 15 years ago when I drove her around in my little van on our sales calls. 2 incidents cemented my impression. In the first incident, a bank executive who attended our luncheon did a back of the envelope calculation after hearing Mount Horrocks annual production and advised Stephanie that she had to scale if she wanted to stay viable. I remembered she graciously smiled and thanked him for his input. Mount Horrocks Wines thriving today is testament that she always knew what she wanted and how to realise it.
The other incident was when I found out by chance that her husband is Jeffrey Grosset, guru of Australian Riesling and one of the country’s most prominent winemakers. Name dropping is quite common in the trade but in the 3 days she was here talking to buyers from top F&B and hospitality establishments, I never heard her mention it once. Decanter magazine in fact named them both as one of the world’s most influential wine couples. Stephanie had the confidence to put her wines right centre and let them do the talking instead. This is one heck of a confidence booster for us as brand importer, knowing that Stephanie’s the real deal.
I highly recommend that you get acquainted with Stephanie and Mount Horrocks Wines. This is a remarkable project hemmed by a lady whom I have a lot of respect for. But as she would agree, try the wines and judge for yourself.
OUR DEAL
Mount Horrocks Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (S$69) Mount Horrocks Shiraz 2019 (S$69) Mount Horrocks Semillon 2021 (S$59) Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling 2022 (S$59) Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling 2021 (375ml) ($59)
The Mount Horrocks selection are limited in quantities and so we can’t offer the usual crazy discounts. We are very happy though to offer 5% off for any 4 bottle purchase. Please use Promo Code HORROCKS to enjoy your discount. While stocks last!
Life is too short to drink bad wine. Have fun!
Best regards, Wong Peng Chung (Kenny) Founder and Chief Wine Drinker
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